RFW Day 2: "All eyes on them" - The Collections

Short hiatus in posting due to late night shows and early travelling back from Iasi. Nevertheless, here are the reviews for the first evening. It took some extra time to put them up since I really wanted to have them both in English and Romanian. We were taking notes on some small notebooks offered by the organisers with pages dedicated to each designer. Pretty nice and practical, too. Let’s see what I wrote down.

Am revenit cu review-urile primei seri, traduse in fraze pe baza notitelor luate pe parcursul serii in carnetelul oferit in mapa de presa. Frumos si practic organizat. Sa incepem deci.

Irina Schrotter Men

The first collection of the evening was Irina Schrotter Men. A collection which wanted to complete the vision of the one created for women. The mix of fabrics and textures ranked pretty high. That inner-city nerve that men have today was highly overrated and expressed through shiny metallics. There were these fabrics which attract light, together with squints of fur, cashmere and velvet. I didn’t really envision the profile of the men who would wear these, neither the connection with the Irina Schrotter collection for women. Their visions are quite contradictory.

Prima seara de prezentari a debutat cu prima colectie Irina Schrotter Men. O colectie care se doreste completarea celei pentru femei. Amestecul de materiale si texturi este pus la mare pret. Nervul urban caractersistic barbatilor din ziua azi este exacerbat inspre tonuri metalice, exotice si sclipitoare. Materiale care iubesc si atrag lumina, completate de texturi grele cum sunt cele ale blanii, casmirului si catifelei. Nu am inteles care este publicul tinta si nici legatura cu colectia Irina Schrotter pentru femei. Diferenta de viziune intre cele doua este considerabila.

Irina Schrotter Men Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Adelina Ivan

The core imagery of the collection revolves around a unique duo: technology and nature. We were witnesses at the disclosure of a modern fairytale starlet, who has transcended her condition and now plays with the classical geometrical conventions. This way, a special attention went towards overworked collars, turned into pieces exuding a strong personality.

Viziunea centrala a colectiei se concentreaza in jurul unui duo unic: tehnologie si naturalete. Am asistat la intruchiparea unei protagoniste de basm moderne, care si-a depasit conditia si acum isi alege drept teren de joaca spatiul volumetriilor construite riguros. In acest sens, o atentie considerabila s-a acordat gulerelor ce devin piese cu individualitate proprie.

Adelina Ivan Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Nichi Cristina Nichita

The idea was very much that of womanliness translated into every classical piece possible. The lines were devoted to follow close the 40s silhouette. The collection takes off slowly, starting with urban, simple pieces and working its way up to va-va-voom world. This world though is far from the modern opinion of elegant, yet with an evident commercial potential. The accessories (bags and tights) often outshine the vision of the clothes they were meant to complete.

Accentul s-a pus extrem de mult pe feminitatea manifestata sub toate fatetele ei. Croielile au fost desigur pe masura temei (anii ‘40), imbracand formele si punandu-le in valoare. Colectia se desfasoara gradat, de la piese urbane (trech-uri, deux-pieces) pana la rochii elegante, insa greu de incadrat in estetica moderna. Accesoriile constand in genti si dresuri supralicitteaza uneori contetxul pe care ar trebui sa il completeze. Per total, o colectie cu ridicat potential comercial, care exista pentru clientela deja formata.

Nichi Cristina Nichita Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Violeta Costin Gaburici

The collection stands up for its own name, “Urban in”, where I’ve sensed an idea of the modern, city-lover contender. The key elements which confirmed my initial impression must have been the hairdos and the boots. Subtle references were made through the combinations between fabrics and some pieces constructed following the guiding principle of glam-sport (especially puffer jackets). Here and there, volume was obtained by crushing together flowers and frills over a consistent hue of beige, or a pitch-dark black.

Colectia se ridica la inaltimea numelui, “Urban in”, in care am sesizat o nuanta a expresivitatii asa-numitei luptatoare urabne. Elemente care mi-au confirmat impresiile au fost coafurile si cizmele. Referiri mai mult sau mai putin directe se fac si prin combinatiile de materiale si piese pe principiul sport glam, unde sunt introduse pufoaice scurte. Volumele punctuale au fost realizate din flori si volane, pe o baza uniform colorata in nuante de alb, negru, crem.

Violeta Costin Gaburici Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Alina Latan

In times when formalism should have been long gone, here comes a collection which decides to rework the pattern. Flowers, namely tulips were almost literally transformed into skirts, blouses and dresses. One question would be whether lightweight, pastel fabrics are adequate for an AW collection. Some historic refferences go far behind in times when berets were all the rage, making some of the outfits to miss the mark.

In timpuri in care formalismul ar trebui sa fie mai degraba dat uitarii, iata ca o colectie isi propune sa sparga acest tipar. Lalele, florile au fost transpuse aproape literal sub forma de fuste, bluze, rochii. O nedumerire este legata de materialele foarte subtiri si modul in care acestea, alaturi de culori pastelate, se preteaza pentru a da viata unei colectii toamna-iarna. Filiera istorica de la care se revendica anumite elemente ca beretele si inocenta scolareasca s-a tradus in mod prea direct in tinutele finale.

Alina Latan Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Tatiana Strambovschi

The first debut of the evening was delicious in presenting feminine dresses, well constructed and with great use of volume. The multidimensional effect was mostly a scenography revolving around the dress itself and the delicacy of the small details did all the talk. Any references were only suggested, so I was able to sense a few sources of inspiration: the desert with the sand dunes, flowers and fish swimming in deep waters.

Primul debut a serii a fost incantator cu piese foarte feminine, in principal rochii, construite extrem de bine din punct de vedere al detaliilor volumetrice. Tridimensionalitatea a fost mai mult sau mai putin o scenografie dezvoltata in planul rochiilor, iar finetea detaliilor a avut probabil cuvantul final. Orice referinta a fost doar sugerata, si am putut doar intui anumite surse de inspiratie: desertul cu dune nisip, flori, sau desenul pestilor.

Tatiana Strambovschi Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Kinga Varga

The vision was pure and reflected clear aesthetic and ideas behind this collection. The colors came in pure, bold blocks which occasionally crush to put together an outfit. Knitwear was, of course, the core of the collection, sometimes updated with touches of organza for a fresh look. The garments adapt to the cold weather season with other touches of cashmere, mohair and cotton. Knitted vests were presented in all shapes and sizes.

Purismul este cel care ar putea descrie cel mai bine experienta vizuala a acetsei colectii. Culorile se pastreaza pure, in blocuri individuale care se ciocnesc ocazional. Tricotajele sunt bineinteles chintesenta colectiei, completate pe alocuri de materiale care le contrabalanseaza, cum ar fi organza. Adaptarea la sezonul rece se face, in afara de tricot, prin casmir, mohair si bumbac, iar vestele impletite au fost prezente in toate lungimile: lungi, medii sau scurte.

Kinga Varga Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Alina Botea

Comfortable houseware seemed to be the inspiration for all the outfits. There was also a hint of traditional colors, prints and fabrics imported right from the Far East. If was specifically easy to read between the lines and see kimonos and robes translated into clothes for the urban, modern woman. Probably the sole element to complete the vision and opposite to the general feeling of relaxation was the huge, teased hair.

Premisa comoditatii pleaca de la constructia hainelor pe care le purtam prin casa. Am sesizat o intoarcere la traditional, la culori, imprimeuri si materiale derivate din cele ale Orientului indepartat, unde comoditatea este la loc de cinste. S-au citit destul de bine chimonourile, halatele de casa reinterpretate intr-o cheie contemporana. Probabil singurul element justificat in opozitie au fost coafurile, extrem de rebele pentru aerul de comoditate respirat de haine.

Alina Botea Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Freudenberg

Next was the collection made up of outfits created by each designer participant at the festival. The fabrics and accessories were offered by Freudenberg and were incorporated into coherent visions to illustrate their role in building fashion. Literally. The big prize went the designer who deserved it the most: Lucian Broscatean.

A urmat colectia compusa din tinute apartinand fiecarui designer. Materialele au fost puse la dispozitie de Freudenberg si au constituit motivul unei demonstratii ale abilitatilor de a construi haine din piese care in mod obisnuit nu le vedem: pernute pentru umeri, plastroane, repere stantate pentru gulere etc. Castigatorul a fost Lucian Broscatean.

Freudenberg sponsor  Romanian Fashion Week Iasi 2010
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

George Hojbota

More of a show than a catwalk presentation, it was supposed to illustrate the opposition between masculinity and femininity, the point in which they melt into each other. The pieces designed for men had ruffles of sorts and black boxes instead of a... head. Maybe this lack of identity completed the second part, the one dedicated to the women. The outfits were structured and simple: volumes assembled on a feminine core.

Probabil cel mai planuit spectacol a fost pus la cale pentru a ilustra eternele opozitii masculin-feminin si punctul in care acestea se intalnesc pentru a face schimb de identitate. Partea dedicata colectiei masculine a adus in atentie volane tipic feminine, alaturate unor cutii negre pe cap. Prezenta acestei identitati sau lipsa ei a completat cea de-a doua parte a colectiei dedicate femeilor. Aici, hainele sunt foarte structurale, simple ca expresivitate: un volum jucat pe un nucleu feminin.

George Hojbota Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Mircea Barbulescu

Again, a collection dedicated to both men and women. Whilst the outifts for men went overboard with being “expressive”, those created for women went bottom-line minimalist. Excess, you say? Yes: a sad, lost bet for the men’s collection and too little for the women, left to strut down the catwalk in more transparent than life dresses.

Din nou o colectie dedicate alaturarii masculin-feminin. In timp ce piesele pentru barbati propun prea multe impresii amestecate despre lume, piesele pentru femei se mentin la limita minima a simpliatii. Se contureaza deci din nou un motiv de opozitie si conflict al aparentelor: supraincarcarea pieselor masculine vs. transparentele rochiilor lungi pentru femei.

Mircea Barbulescu Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Alina Popescu

A debut again, which declares as an inspiration source the dark hues of the night and the moon itself. The volumes played the lead role, some possible to interpret as the reincarnations of Oriental dragons, depicted in monochrome.

Din nou un debut care declara ca sursa de inspiratie culorile intunecate ale noptii si astrii care o definesc, dintre care cea mai importanta este luna. Volumetriile au definit in mod clar colectia, iar unele ar putea fi interpretate ca si voci noi ale expresivitatii imensilor dragoni orientali, tradusi in monocromie.

Alina Popescu Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Mihaela Glavan

A collection of accessories, not mush to say as it was quite hard to understand properly in the context of a fashion festival.

Mihaela Glavan Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Lucian Broscatean

At a first glance, the first mention goes to the black shoes with wooden soles, inspired by their Oriental counterparts. Then, the attention shifts towards the clothes themselves, which I could appreciate properly after seeing and touching them before the show, in backstage. The main inspiration (architecture, Tadao Ando, Herzog & de Meuron) was showing through the cuts and incisions operated into dark hued fabrics. The title of the collection is significant and well chosen to express the idea: “Isolated Dislocations”.

La vederea colectiei, prima remarca se indreapta inspre pantofii negri cu talpa din lemn inspirati din modelul oriental. Dupa aceea, atentia se indreapta asupra hainelor care, in lipsa unor priviri mai atente in backstage asupra detaliilor pot sa nu dezvaluie tot de la prima vedere. S-au operat incizii in volumele dominate de nuante inchise, s-au creat portiuni cu clivaje, dislocari asa cum o spune si titlul colectiei: “Isolated Dislocations”.

Lucian Broscatean Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Sergiu Chihaia

Another debut, with an idea to discuss the limit between the versatility of clothes and the way in which they are designed to serve this function. The highlight is not only the fabrics themselves, but onto the way they are cut, sewn, put together. The zippers play games of their own and the well-known juxtaposition of transparent and opaque is omnipresent.

Un alt debut, ce se defineste sub semnul tratarii limitei intre disponibilitatea la adaptare a hainelor si modul in care ele sunt construite pentru a indeplini acest scop. Accentul este transferat dinspre materiale spre constructia tinutei, spre tipare si taieturi. Exista o oferta deschisa a fermoarelor, ce devin mijloace de expresivitate in planul hainelor. Se remarca vesnica alaturare transparent opac prin suprapunerea unor linii apartinand celor doua lumi.

Sergiu Chihaia Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Stephan Pelger

This collection went for a fair dose of sculptural details while being able to conserve a general coherent aspect. The lines were fluid (see dresses and skirts), generated by diaphanous and precious materials. There was also fur and the color pallette went from white and black all the way to bold turquoise.

Colectia s-a constituit intr-o aparenta unitara in diversitatea sa, reusind sa imbine frumos detalii de volumetrii si sculpturi cu forme fluide generate de materiale mai subtiri. Tonul general este situat undeva la limita cu elegantul dar fara a contrazice minimalismul cautat al unei rochii simple. Putinele culori dau ansamblului o senzatie de coerenta: alb, negru, turcoaz.

Stephan Pelger Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.

Irina Schrotter

It was, all in all, a strong collection, with ability to renew itself in the urban context. There were contrasts but also many types of textiles mixed together in a non-abusive way, completeing each other. Some garments contained a subtle shift through a seam from leather to the main material without even noticing it. There was everything for any woman, irrespective of the mood: casual or glam.

Trasaturile colectiei au respirat putere, o putere capabila de autoregenerare in contextul dur al orasului. Exista contraste (pasteluri in contrast cu textura masiva), dar si o bogatie de materiale care se pot completa reciproc fara a crea disonante. In unele piese, pielea se substituie materialului principal in continuarea cusaturii, o trecere insesizabila si bine regizata. Alternanta elementelor apartinand stilului sport cu cele apartinand stilului elegant descriu cel mai bine colectia.

Irina Schrotter Toamna-Iarna 2010 Romanian Fashion Week Iasi
See the entire collection on Fashion&Beauty, here.


Update! Further reading:
Romanian Fashion Week presents "Iasi - Shanghai"
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Press Release -> Romanian Fashion Week (Press Release)
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Day 1-> RFW Day 1: “Dear Diary”
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Day 2 -> RFW Day 2
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Day 3 -> RFW Day 3: "Tale Continued" - The Collections

Related: Cluj Fashion Week 2010
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 1: Diane Pernet Q&A
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 1: Fashion shows
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 2: A new, interactive order
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 2: Fashion shows
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 3: Fashion shows

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