Let's continue reporting from the ongoing Cluj Fashion Week. I am writing this at the end of the second day. Participating at various events and updating at the same time has proven to be very challenging and frankly impossible. At this point it seems a must to put together a "What I have learned at CFW: a practical guide". Experience, experience here I come. Also, I suspect this blog is the only one which covers in English. I hope word spreads out there about this event for its impact and content. With its ups and downs, yes, but today was an amazing, action-packed day. More on it will go in future posts. For now, let's wrap up the intro and proceed to the fashion shows. This post will focus on yesterday's (15 April) fashion shows and be warned, it is long but well worth going through it...
There are some general facts I would like to state: the first one is that I am somehow sad to see, over and over again the same conceptualization that haunts our catwalks. I can't exactly put my finger on it, that is why I chose to present it under this term. There is that feeling sent by some collections which doesn't allow them to become real fashion, be it wearable or not. I will not go through all of the collections, simply because I don't want to say anything negative. The only thing I ever posted here is only and exclusively what I like, and this Fashion Week is no exception.
Allow me to tell you a story...
I arrived at the location some minutes before the time announced in the schedule. As soon as I stepped inside and started searching for the seat, I met Lucian Broscatean. We started talking and he took me backstage right before the fashion shows started:
The only video I made was with the show put up by The University of Art and Design Cluj. Lucian told me it was based on deconstruction, and when touching the garments I noticed some great detailing going on around the shoulder area, pleats etc. The grey tone is inspired by the streets in the city, thus setting an urban note:
Please, please excuse the quality of the recording but I took it with my camera and it had to cover quite a huge space. Even in these conditions, I like how the clothes stand out.
Let's discuss a bit the collection presented by Ada Bucsa. It caused quite a stir. I was mentioning conceptualization at the beginning of the post... well, although Ada's collection could seem to fall into the same category, it doesn't. The reason for this is that she actually put a message across. The public felt something. Something which wasn't the effect of weird walking or weirder shoes. It wasn't the powerful music either. Nor the clothes when they are perceived as a whole, as a cohesive collection. It was the idea, continuously emphasized with every detail, with each turn something new came out only to reinforce the... concept. Score! But it sure was a tight one Ada...
above: Ada Bucsa
Some snippets from other collections I liked:
This one above is my favorite piece so far: look at that detail!
What's in my mind at the end of the first day?
A minor critique is the sporadic lack of voice to the collections. What do I mean by voice? The same feeling, a common ground to all the looks, as little as it is. Irrespective what is my personal opinion on the collections, whether I thought they were brilliant or bottom line, I want to see the idea. If I, as a spectator like it or not, that is entirely up to me.
Another general dilemma: what is it with all the leggings that literally invaded the podium? Metallic, black, long, short, whatever, they were all over the place. Weird...
My conclusion which I stand up to each time I see a fashion show, be it on the internet or live is that I don't want to see commonplaces. I refuse to see on a catwalk looks that could be assembled from any mall right this instant. I want to see innovation, but not concepts. I want to see craftsmanship and good taste. I read reviews and heard opinions regarding the quality of the materials. Well, it might not have been the best, students don't always afford... stuff in general not to mention tons of expensive materials. Sometimes, even exceptional designers don't. But we forgive them don't we? Let's try to see behind the appearances. Or, as Diane Pernet put it, let's see that talent shine through.
Update! Further reading:
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 1: Diane Pernet Q&A
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 2: A new, interactive order
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 2: Fashion shows
♥ Cluj Fashion Week Day 3: Fashion shows
Related: Romanian Fashion Week 2010
♥ Romanian Fashion Week presents "Iasi - Shanghai"
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Press Release -> Romanian Fashion Week (Press Release)
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Day 1-> RFW Day 1: “Dear Diary”
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Day 2 -> RFW Day 2
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Day 2 -> RFW Day 2: "All eyes on them" - The Collections
♥ Romanian Fashion Week 2010 Day 3 -> RFW Day 3: "Tale Continued" - The Collections