Saturday, March 7, 2009

Sleep Is So Last Night

Some part of the day was dedicated to scooping out from the racks a certain pair of jeans. I'm sure they will be seen on here pretty fast. Also, ran into a pair of platform shoes. Wishing for some ever since last autumn, but some decent looking ones to wear during daytime came hard. Also, been reading each page in this month's Harper's Bazaar. And, of course, totally all over the editorial featuring Sarah Jessica Parker as Diana Vreeland. Diana Vreeland, whom I admire so much. I'm sure I'm not the only one. Beautifully done photos. On the other hand, wouldn't expect anything else from Peter Lindbergh...

Sweet treats,
Daiane

Friday, March 6, 2009

15' of fame for royal ears

"Vivienne Westwood took my 78 record and stuck sticky tape on all the bits she didn't want to hear." (Jeremy Healy, IHT)

I stumbled across tfs posts listing the music tracks played during various fashion shows a couple of times. Do you think there is much of magic of the show relying on makeup, hairodos, scenery and music? I think it is actually somewhere of these combined in, say, 10%? An impeccable dress will look amazing if wore wiht last night's makeup or with fresh lipstick on the lips. Haha, maybe even more impeccable in the first case, but that's not the point right now.

A lot of fashion shows promote an indie singer or band because it often seems to make them stand out from the crowd. Some designers impose their current music tastes (Marc Jacobs, Anna Sui), some take their mind visions to DJ and put up a mix together (Miucia Prada). And voila, the magic that makes your feet follow on the tempo even if you are standing. By the way, I totally love this unconscious gesture people make when they listen to notes that transmit something powerful to them. 

Tapping the beat on the floor with one of your feet is the ultimate in any season, ok? Regardless of the show, I think it is pretty rad, as a clothes designer to manage coordinating other details such as background music to follow your vision.

Ok, now onto some names. Who makes the music in fashion? Well, it basically adds up to these guys: Jeremy Healy (for John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood, debut for Martin Margiela),  
Frédéric Sanchez (for Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Versace and Calvin Klein) and Michel Gaubert (for Chanel, Balenciaga, Jil Sander and Dries Van Noten).

Jeremy Healy, talking about a Dior show: "It's madness what I do, and it lasts 15 minutes." Just as Andy Warhol predicted.
some pieces of info via IHT

Later edit: same info and more on RFB

Sweet treats,
Daiane

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Architecture By Day, Fashion By Night

Where is the limit between creating under your own name or for a well-known lable? How and when you decide where to stop? Does is take being even a tiny bit egocentric? Taking Karl Lagerfeld for instance: he designs for Chanel for 25 years now, but he's just as well know as an individual. What does it take to power both yourself and an entire brand? 

I was also thinking about Maison Martin Margiela. The three initials, as well as the labels on the clothes are real trademarks; standing for themselves if you know your way around fashion world. Or own one of the MMM pieces, for that matter. 
But the most important fact is that Margiela wishes to keep himself in the shadow. Press-releases are always using verbs in their plural forms, to stress the collective character of the brand. Also, Margiela is known for never talking to the press or giving interviews. No photos of him either. It's all about the brand.

Gareth Pugh is a young emerging designer, coming straight from Central Saint-Martins in 2003. He created at first mostly for famous clients in the showbiz industry. Yet he later was working under the supervison of Rick Owens and his partner, Michele Lamy. Now however, Hugh's collections, even though they seem so wacky, are doing extremely well in the sales department as well. 
What I'm asking, will he become a self-entitled and established label, or will he continue having a mentor (namely Rick Owens)? Yes, some more essential info: Bernard Arnault, the chief executive at LVHM is rumored to have his eye out for Pugh. LVHM already sponsored Pugh's January Paris show. What I wonder, will Pugh join the LVHM team, or will he go all by himself? If he has the means to do it, that's a fact: Barney's is doing well in selling his clothes...

I'll end with Karl Lagerfeld again, who is one of the most inspirational designers out there. I wonder, how amazing must it be to wake up every morning and doing lots of amazing stuff, basically not letting any design field uncovered, while also taking further the classical name that is Chanel. Timeless, indeed.
photo credit: Jacques Habbah, via The Moment
Sweet treats,
Daiane   

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Birds In A House On A Hill

This photo generated a very strong vision of some of the origami pieces I've made myself years ago all hanging form the ceiling. On invisible threads. 
Surely, it would be more poetic to have them all as white birds, like this particular, hm, chandelier, seen on the selby. I don't exactly have the 13 foot tall ceiling to suspend it from, but come on:
Am I the only stalker of the selby? It has so amazing people and places portrayed (uh, please take me home with you?). Bold, colorful stuff, just I like things to be. Also, big time object clashes. Associations of unexpected items, cool living-rooms; pieces of furniture belonging to different time frames or styles. All a bit on the edge, a bit out there, but surprinsingly refreshing to see. And yes, hand painted words, too. 
So-so cool. Do try it when you get a bit a free time on your hands, it's highly advisable. Through this particularly post I found out about Liquid Architecture. It's a band with a cool sound, very much like some other french rock bands I used to listen on repeat back in highschool.
photo credit: the selby

Sweet treats,
Daiane

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Questions Of Science, Science And Progress

Could this be it? The future of trends... anticipating them is the job of designers of all sorts. Also, the revival of trends from time to time is an acknowledged fact.  The first trend exhibition will open on the 26th of March in Eindhoven. Its curator, Li Edelkoort, wants to prove "that trends are not a brief phenomenon, but are deeply rooted in our daily lives". She is a trend forecaster, and her observations cover a large area of attitudes regarding colors, materials, shapes. Name a domain and it is right there: fashion, photography and design in general. Also, there are peeks into the archives too, to generate a complete image of the evolution of things.  

All these photos are from the current exhibition taking place at Institut Néerlandais in Paris.




Also, as I was typing this I realised (this happens so often, I know) that these trend forecasters are so little known to the large public. Those who step into the limelight and actually apply trends are named trendsetters. What is the limit? Do they connect to each other's ideas? I mean, at least partially, I can't imagine two of them meeting and discussing things over a cup of coffee. Haha. Unfortunately now, celebrities impose trends today more successfully than any other people. I find that so sad. You know what? I'd rather be a trend forecaster than a trendsetter anytime.

P.S. I had to post this quote, is marvellous and illustrates the entire trend concept. About the Milan Fashion week on The Moment
<<Four days into Milan fashion week the question is no longer "will they do an '80s show," it's what part of that era will the designer mine for inspiration.>>
Hear us roar.

Sweet treats,
Daiane

Oh My Controversy

What you are reading right now is something I hesitated about actually posting. It's about the Elizabeth and James collection belonging to the Olsen tweens. And yes, it is a highly discussed, posted, over-posted, talked about and gossiped news as in late. 

Some of the pieces are, well, basic. That's good, because it makes the collection wearable, increasing sales and offering high class pieces to the greater part of the public. The clothes are really nice and I personally wouldn't give a second thought to wearing any of them. 

If that's how it goes with the garments, wait until I arrive to the Elizabeth and James jewellery part. Must start with these. I mean, goodness, I must have died and went straight up to heaven, as good old folks say:
Yes, clothes too now. I picked five looks, the ones I liked best:





Also, collection presentation photos (seen above). Targeting to the public teens or twenty-somethings. So in. And what, isn't a hot pink poney in a leash something destined to make you buy the clothes worn by the model holding it? There you go. And I've just posted it. I'm being a bit ironic, but I told you already I like the collection, per total.
photo credit: Elizabeth and James
Sweet treats,
Daiane

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Special Occasions

Before anything else, today marks a semi-anniversary of Sweet Fancy Treat. I am officially blogging on a daily basis for a year an a half now. Yaay! Also, I'm about to hit my 600th post and knowing I kept this thing going on for so much time makes me utterly happy.




Now! Let's talk business. Namely, the outside photos I've been promising yesterday. I reconstructed the outfit I wore on Friday night. And yes, in some of the photos I included a random balloon I have in my studying room. Why, you see, it blends in perfectly with other random items like vintage hats and fashion books. Eh. 
Details: the scarf and dress are new; short black sweater and shoes I have since back in highschool days, tights from some small shop a while ago. 
Notice how the 2 meter knitted scarf looks in real life. You've partially seen it here. The brooch on it I only got yesterday, from my grandma. I think it is more than amazing, she always chooses the greatest stuff. We all suspect it is an owl. Immediately after receiving it, I pinned it to the scarf and there sits since then. Attention, photo galore ahead.









Ok. I think this humongous self-centered post makes for the entire week that somehow flew by. It equilibrates right, no? 
Thought so. Be good.

Sweet treats,
Daiane

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